On our sail from Coffs Harbour to Yamba on the Clarence River, I saw my first water spout! We sailed downwind, and Dwayne spent most of the day at the helm. Crossing the bar into the Clarence River was not the most fun I’ve ever had. We crossed at a low tide with a 2.5+ metre swell and blowing 25 knots. We found out later that day that the fishing boats had not gone out that day… and if the fishing boats don’t cross the bar, you shouldn’t. Oops!
Anyway, got through safe and sound and went to Yamba. The next day we went for a walk around the town and out to the end of the breakwater… the bar crossing this morning was dead flat with no waves breaking; it would have made for a less stressful bar crossing.
Iluka
Next, we visited Iluka. They have a small remnant of rainforest, which is part of the World Heritage-listed Gondwana rainforests. The forest was teeming with birds; we saw many of them and heard even more, including the ‘whipcrack’ of the Eastern whipbird. The walk took us to Iluka Bluff, where the view was spectacular.
We had a drink at Sedgers Reef Hotel and a walk along the pier, where we found a great little fish shop selling the freshest prawns.
Up the Clarence River to explore!
The bridge at Harwood lifts up to allow larger boats through; therefore, we were able to head up river to explore more of the Clarence River.
Maclean
Maclean was our first stop. Maclean calls itself “The Scottish Town in Australia” They are very proud of their heritage. You see it everywhere, from the Gallic street names, the painted Tartan Power Poles, and banners in the streets.
We walked to the lookout, which had a good view of the river system back towards the ocean, and we had drinks at the Maclean Hotel with some fellow sailors.
Ulmarra
Upstream we visited Ulmarra along with Ty from SV Sahara. The following morning we had coffee at the café with Ty and Alan Lucas (Australian cruising writer). We then had a look around this quaint little town and checked out a few antique shops.
The wind was forecast at 30-40knots, and as we got back to the boat, the wind hit. This made getting the boat off the pier problematic. We headed downstream for protection from the wind.
Lawrence
Once anchored and sheltered from the wind, we wandered around town, had drinks at the pub with Ty and then stayed on for dinner when Dwayne spied pork Shanks on the menu.
Harwood
Later that week, we headed down to Harwood and were joined by Dave, Christine and Lilly from Trufflehound. The ‘Trufflehound’ family joined us for dinner on Thorfinn. Marlin steaks… again!
Under the bridge the next day, we headed back to Iluka. And set sail the next day for the Gold Coast. Onwards and upwards!
More Information
Anchorages, moorings & berths
Yamba – Yamba has a Marina (we didn’t stay there) click here for prices http://www.yambamarina.com.au/prices.php
Iluka – We anchored in a sheltered area. The Clarence River Fishermen’s Co-operative (CRFC) also has moorings http://www.crfc.com.au/facilities.html
Maclean – There is a pontoon at Maclean, with power and water. I’m sure it would not be easy to get a spot in busy times as it only takes two or three boats. We anchored (easily) across the Clarence River the first night and then moved to the pontoon the next day. We connected to the power and water as we filled our tanks and did the washing. Maclean is a great town, and I enjoyed the walk to the lookout several times and the pub meals. Large town – camping and fishing store, supermarket, police station, church and walking trail etc
Ulmurra – has a jetty that we berthed at until the weather became unsuitable. A historic town, pub, crafts and antiques.
Lawrence – We had 35 knots plus, as we left Ulmurra and we looked for somewhere protected along the Clarence. We found a good spot at Lawrence with good holding. Pub nearby on shore.
Harwood – This is just before the bridge if you are heading east. We berthed at the pontoon before moving the boat across the river to anchor near friends. Limit space on the pontoon. Good anchorage. Small town and pub.
Accommodation
We typically book our accommodation through booking.com. Indeed we like the convenience of booking online, and we are usually able to pay for our accommodation on arrival at the hotel/resort or room. Additionally, booking.com advertise many different accommodation styles in New South Wales, so you are sure to find the perfect place.
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