Sailing Croatia was incredible, unbelievable… extraordinary? No, that just doesn’t epitomize it! Sailing in Croatia was sublime. Croatia is stunning and awe-inspiring. I know; it sounds like I’m trying to sell you something, but I’m not. This post is not about the charter company we used but about a blissful two weeks exploring what I think is one of the most beautiful and exciting countries I have yet visited.
Croatia is not merely stunning blue seas, beaches and boats. It is full of history, delicious food, glorious buildings and quaint fairytale towns. I know, I do sound a bit airy-fairy. Croatia makes me feel a bit that way. You must remember that Dwayne and I are from Australia and New Zealand where human history did not begin until about 50,000 years ago, and European history did not start until the late 1700s, little over 200 years ago.
In contrast, Croatia has evidence of human occupation dating back 130,000 years, and when you visit this beautiful country, you will see structures dating back 2000 years. You will meander cobblestone lanes and fortified walls that are many hundreds of years old. It was all very fascinating for us!
Our home for two weeks was a Lagoon 42 with four double cabins, each with its own ensuite. The main indoor living area had the galley (kitchen) and dining area. Outdoors, there was another dining area and some other seating. It was very comfortable for the eight of us.
Onboard for two weeks was Croatian family, Ilija, Anka, Nikkola, Luka and Lipa the Maltese terrier, as well as Russian friends Oleg and Anastasia.
Itinerary and Checklist
We left from Trogir and sailed to Dubrovnik and back, stopping at many of the islands on the way. We spent one night in the marina before we left as we were waiting for two of our company to arrive. Spending a night in the marina was probably a good thing as we discovered a few problems that we were able to deal with before we began sailing. At the end of this post, I will do a checklist of things to check before you set forth on your charter cruise. For now, I will tell you all about the destinations we visited.
Trogir
Trogir is a historic town and harbour on the Adriatic coast in Split-Dalmatia County, Croatia [wiki]. Old Town Trogir, situated on a small island between the Croatian mainland and the island of Čiovo, has 2300 years of continuous urban heritage. Leading influencers were the Greeks, Romans, and Venetians.
This UNESCO inscribed area has a fortress as well as many palaces, churches and towers. There is much to see and do, and a walk around Old Town is a must. Narrow cobblestone lanes meander through ancient buildings (this will be a common theme of this post), and you do feel as though you have stepped back in time. We also shopped for supplies here and found a great local market selling all sorts of delicious produce.
Nečujam, Otok Solta
Our first night’s anchorage was at Nečujam on the island of Solta. A few of our crowd took Lipa ashore to do her business and Oleg went for a swim very chilly water. But other than that we just relaxed, cooked dinner, played Rummikub and enjoy the serenity of the beautiful anchorage.
Milna, Otok Brač
The next day we stopped briefly at Milna on the island of Brač. Milna, reputed as the most beautiful and the safest harbour of Brač, is a picturesque harbour town. However, we only moored here briefly to topped up our water (having discovered the water tank only held half the amount of water). We also picked up a few more supplies (you will inevitably forget something), and we had showers at the small marina. Some of us went for a walk around the harbour and enjoyed a coffee overlooking the water. Then we were on our way again.
Hvar, Otok Hvar
When we arrived at Hvar on the island of Hvar, we picked up a mooring and tied the boat astern to the shore (Mediterranian style). Then we went ashore to explore Hvar. By this stage, I was well aware that Croatia had thousands of years of history. My mind was going to be continually blown. Just think about it… Australia wasn’t even on the world maps when people were sitting at this harbour drinking wine and gossiping about their neighbours.
Hvar has one of the oldest surviving theatres in Europe which opened in 1612. Other things to see and do in Hvar include a visit to Spanjola Fortress which houses a museum and the Napolean Fortress. Both have exceptional views over Hvar Town.
Visit the Pjaca (Piazza). This area leads from the waterfront to the Cathedral Buildings. Many buildings around this area date back to the 15th – 17th century and include the Arsenal, as well as the Bishop’s and Governor’s Palaces. There is a city well in the middle of the square that dates back to 1520.
Vis, Otok Vis
Our next stop was Vis on the island of Vis. Ilija, Oleg, Anastasia, Dwayne and I hired scooters so we could get out and see more of this island. We made a loop of the island, having coffee at Konoba Gusti Poja, lunch in Komiza and visiting Tito’s cave. The island of Vis has a long history as a military stronghold, and Tito’s Cave housed Tito, the leader of the resistance movement during World War II.
Other things to do and see in Vis include the Archeological Museum, Franciscan Church and Monastery built in the 16th century, and Fort George, constructed by the British in 1813.
Komiza, Otok Vis
The next day we sailed on towards Komiza. We made a small detour to visited a submarine tunnel. The submarine tunnels (Military Tunnels) were used in the second world war to hide submarines. We anchored offshore and took the dinghy over to the shaft. We explored inside the tunnel and then walked through a small passage that opened up outside on the hillside.
Once we were underway again, we stopped at the famous beach at Stiniva Bay. This beach voted the best beach in Europe 2016, is usually packed with tourist during high season. However, since we were there in April, we pretty much had the beach to ourselves. Anka, Dwayne, Oleg, Anastasia, Lipa and I went to shore for a look around. Oleg, we were now calling ‘The Machine’ (due to his tendance of swimming in the icy water) went swimming… not once, but twice. The water was seriously too cold for Dwayne and I as we are used to the tropical water of Thailand. Some of us, after having a look around this tiny beach, just lay on the warm stone beach or tossed rocks to see who could hit the stick.
Back on the boat, we continued our way to Komiza. At Komiza we went ashore for dinner. We found a delightful little konoba tucked away in the meandering backstreets of this tiny ancient town. The ambience was charming, and the food delicious. We also discovered some delicious local red wine and port. After dinner, we wandered the harbour and watched the sunset. Oh, yes, this was paradise! Did you know, parts of “Mumma Mia! Here We Go Again” were filmed in Komiza?
Otok Biševo
The next morning we left Komiza and stopped at Biševo Island to visit the blue cave before continuing onto Lastovo. The Blue Cave is quite extraordinary. I can’t say I haven’t seen anything similar before, but it is definitely stunning. It is well worth a boat trip inside to see the natural phenomenon as the sunlight reflects off the white sand and lights up the water an iridescent blue.
To be continued…
More Information
Currency
Kuna – HRK, written here as kn
Also used is the Euro €
Tips for cruising Croatia
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- Anchor and use the dinghy/tender to get to shore if you want to save money. Marinas and moorings can be expensive.
- Chartering a yacht in the off-season is much cheaper. We were there in April 2019. All the towns on the islands were not busy, which was great, but it was not warm enough to swim. We enjoyed discovering the history of the small towns. Now (in August 2019), we are sailing once again. All the towns are teeming with tourists. The weather is beautiful, and we anchor in remote bays and swim all day. My point is – the type of holiday you have will depend on what time of year you go sailing.
- Know which way the wind is blowing so you can pick an appropriate anchorage. Use a weather app. We use WindyT and PredictWind.
- Work out a weekly menu and use a list when you shop for supplies. It is not easy to get the ginger you need for a particular dish or that bottle of champagne for your wedding anniversary when you are anchored in a secluded bay.
- Many establishments on the islands take credit cards. But be aware not all do, so do carry some cash. Euro and Kuna are both accepted in Croatia. Some small shops will take Euros but not coins.
Tips for boat life
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- Use a soft bag, e.g. duffel bag or backpack (instead of a hard suitcase), as they are easier to pack away on the boat and don’t take up valuable storage space.
- Bring games, i.e. cards or board games, especially if you are travelling with children.
- Hairdryer – don’t bother; you will generally only be able to use it when the generator is working.
- European plug outlets
- A power board could come in handy if you need to charge a tablet, phone, computer, camera, drone etc.
Tips for checking your charter yacht
When we turned on the air conditioner on the first night, we found it didn’t work. Dwayne inspected both of the A/Cs and found that both water filters were full of weeds. He also found that one of the air conditioner seacocks was not on. So we suggest you check the boat yourselves or ask questions if you are unsure.
The company should do an induction with you. Make sure you have a list of questions for them, and listen carefully to instructions.
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- Do have a list of questions to ask.
- Ensure you know how to use the generator, A/C, oven, etc.
- Check that all seacocks are on, e.g. engine raw water, generator, toilets, etc.
- Make sure you know how to open and close the blackwater holding tanks. They must be closed when you are near shore.
Things to do
Blue Cave
When you arrive in the bay, you need to pick up a mooring, and then a small boat will approach. They offer tours into the cave.
Cost – kn50 per adult & kn25 per child
Fort Fortica (Španjola)
Great views from the fort/cafe.
Location – walk from the square to the north, passing the main city gate or Porta di datallo (Gate of Dates) and ascending the stairs through the old part of the city.
Cost – kn40 per adult & kn20 per child
Accommodation
We typically book our accommodation through booking.com. We like the convenience of booking online, and we can usually pay for our accommodation on arrival at the hotel/resort or room. Also, booking.com advertises many different accommodation styles throughout Croatia so that you will find the perfect place. We didn’t need accommodation while we chartered the yacht, but we booked a few different accommodation styles in various places during our stay in Croatia.
Sibenik
Cost – kn 320 / night (AUD 71.00, EUR 43, USD 48 per night).
Pros – The owner met us at the property; he is very friendly. The property is comfortable. The location is great. A short walk took us into town, the fort and the sea promenade.
Cons – Parking is available at the property but is most suitable for a very small car.
Our verdict – Basic accommodation, friendly host.
iVisa
iVisa makes getting a visa super easy. You can even get passport and visa photos done!
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